Knowledge is skin power

A Look Inside

Welcome to Epiluma's Ingredients Library—it’s not just a list of ingredients, but a look inside our formulations and the science behind every decision made. Each ingredient has been carefully chosen for its role in supporting skin health, backed by research, and considered for safety and efficacy.

Explore The Truth About Chemicals and deep dive into Our Commitment to learn more about our approach to ingredient selection and product formulation.

Growth Factors

Boosts Skin Renewal

Main Function: Supports natural cellular regeneration and enhances skin elasticity.
How It Works: Growth factors act as signalling molecules that instruct skin cells to regenerate, increasing collagen and elastin production. By stimulating fibroblasts, they improve skin texture, hydration, and resilience.
Why It Matters: As we age, our natural growth factor production declines, leading to slower cell turnover and visible aging. Topically applied growth factors help counteract this, promoting firmer, healthier skin.
Topical Growth Factors for the Treatment of Facial Photoaging: This study highlights how growth factors can effectively reduce visible signs of facial photoaging by improving skin texture and minimising the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles when applied topically after micro-needling.
Clinical Evidence of Dermal and Epidermal Restructuring from a Biologically Active Growth Factor Serum for Skin Rejuvenation: This research indicates that growth factors derived from human, animal, and plant origins can repair skin by promoting collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycan production, effectively reinforcing the skin's extracellular matrix—skin structure.
Topical growth factor preparations for facial skin rejuvenation: A systematic review: Thirty-two clinical studies representing 1,180 participants over a span of two decades have shown that topical applications of growth factors can improve skin texture and reduce signs of photoaging.

4D Hyaluronic Acid

Multi-Layer Hydration

Main Function: 4D hyaluronic acid is made up of four different, mixed molecular weights: extremely low, low, medium and high molecular weight. Each molecular weight hydrates different levels of the skin, from surface-level moisture to deeper dermal hydration.
How It Works: Lower-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid (LMW-HA / LMHA) penetrates deep into the skin for longer-lasting hydration while higher-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid (HMW-HA / HMWA) moisturises skin at the surface-level for quick and immediate benefits.
Why It Matters: Traditional hyaluronic acid hydrates only the skin surface, evaporating quickly. A combination of HMW-HA and LMW-HA ensures thorough hydration by targeting multiple skin layers.
Clinical Evaluation of Next-generation, Multi-weight Hyaluronic Acid: This study found significant clinical benefits in the daily use of multi-weight hyaluronic acid, specifically improving the overall health and appearance of skin.
New Functions of Low-Molecular-Weight Hyaluronic Acid on Epidermis Filaggrin Production and Degradation: This study suggests that low-molecular-weight HA enhances skin hydration by boosting filaggrin production—moisture-binding proteins and molecules— that also help to strengthen the skin barrier from the outer to deeper skin layers.
Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment: This clinical trial found that all creams containing hyaluronic acid improved skin hydration and elasticity, while low-molecular-weight HA has a significant reduction in wrinkle depth, likely due to better penetration abilities.

Peptides

Reduces Fine Lines

Main Function: Smooths skin texture while supporting collagen production
How It Works: Peptides are short chains of amino acids that signal the skin to produce more collagen and elastin, strengthening the skin barrier and improving its texture.
Why It Matters: Peptides help maintain firmness and elasticity while reducing the appearance of fine lines without the irritation associated with retinol.
A Randomized, Double-blind, Placebo-controlled Clinical Study Investigating the Efficacy and Tolerability of a Peptide Serum Targeting Expression Lines: The study from 2021 demonstrates that peptide serum (LTPS) was effective in improving expression lines, wrinkles, and overall skin health after twelve weeks of application.
Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin: This study from 2009 highlights promising effects of some peptides on aged or photo-damaged skin with further studies needed.
Evaluation of dermal extracellular matrix and epidermal–dermal junction modifications using matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization mass spectrometric imaging, in vivo reflectance confocal microscopy, echography, and histology: effect of age and peptide applications: This research from 2015 demonstrates a blend of specific peptides enhanced the extracellular matrix structure (skin structure) compared to the placebo application.
Peptides: Emerging Candidates for the Prevention and Treatment of Skin Senescence: This 2025 review shows powerful applications for peptides in the treatment of skin aging based on their mechanism of action in modulating intracellular pathways.

Ceramides

Strengthens Skin Barrier

Main Function: Protects and improves moisture retention.
How It Works: Ceramides are lipids naturally found in the skin barrier, responsible for sealing in moisture and defending against environmental damage.
Why It Matters: A compromised skin barrier leads to dryness, irritation, and sensitivity. Ceramides restore this barrier, keeping skin resilient and hydrated.
Anti-skin-aging effects of human ceramides via collagen and fibrillin expression in dermal fibroblasts: This 2022 study found that a ceramide mixture (ceramide EOP, ceramide NDS, and ceramide NP), helps combat skin aging by enhancing fibroblast activity by increasing growth factors (FGF2, TGF-β1, and TGF-β2), which stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid production, helping to improve elasticity, reduce wrinkles, and strengthen the skin barrier.
Topical treatments with acylceramide dispersions restored stratum corneum lipid lamellar structures in a reconstructed human epidermis model: This 2018 study shows that ceramides, especially acylceramides like Ceramide EOP, help repair and strengthen the skin barrier.
Characterisation of a new ceramide EOS species: Synthesis and investigation of the thermotropic phase behaviour and influence on the bilayer architecture of stratum corneum lipid model membranes: This 2011 study found synthesized ceramide EOS works like natural ceramides to improve oxidative stability while offering better protection against environmental damage.
Efficacy of Ceramide-Containing Formulations on UV-Induced Skin Surface Barrier Alterations: This 2021 study found that ceramide-containing skincare products used routinely can effectively reduce UV-induced erythema and hyperpigmentation while improving skin hydration, and helping maintain skin barrier integrity by supporting healthy cell turnover.

Collagen

Improves Firmness and Elasticity

Main Function: Plant-based collagen enhances skin texture and suppleness.
How It Works: Collagen provides structural support to the skin by maintaining firmness, elasticity, and strength. It works by forming a network of fibers that help our skin stay plump and resilient.
Why It Matters: Collagen production declines by 1% per year after age 20, leading to wrinkles and sagging skin. Topical collagen and collagen-boosting ingredients help replenish and maintain youthful skin.
Collagen peptides and the related synthetic peptides: A review on improving skin health: This 2021 research demonstrates that bioactive peptides, including collagen and synthetic variants, can improve skin health by enhancing elasticity, reducing wrinkles, and protecting against UV damage.
Effect of a Topical Collagen Tripeptide on Antiaging and Inhibition of Glycation of the Skin: A Pilot Study: This 2022 study found that topical collagen tripeptide (CTP) significantly improved wrinkles, skin elasticity, and density in 22 Asian women, while also reducing the accumulation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) after four weeks, with no reported adverse effects.
Collagen Supplements for Aging and Wrinkles: A Paradigm Shift in the Fields of Dermatology and Cosmetics: The research on existing literature suggests that both oral and topical collagen improve skin elasticity, hydration, and reduce wrinkles. However, due to variations in absorption, dosage, and study settings, more large-scale, long-term research is needed to validate their effectiveness and potential long-term effects, particularly in diverse populations.

Squalane

Balances Hydration

Main Function: Supports natural cellular regeneration and enhances skin elasticity.
How It Works: Growth factors act as signalling molecules that instruct skin cells to regenerate, increasing collagen and elastin production. By stimulating fibroblasts, they improve skin texture, hydration, and resilience.
Why It Matters: As we age, our natural growth factor production declines, leading to slower cell turnover and visible aging. Topically applied growth factors help counteract this, promoting firmer, healthier skin.
Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology: This 2009 review highlights squalene’s crucial role in protecting the skin from oxidative damage and its potential antitumor properties, though limited human trials underscore the need for further clinical research.
Explicating the multifunctional roles of tocotrienol and squalene in promoting skin health: This review identifies squalene as a promising skincare ingredient due to its ability to soothe redness, regulate inflammation, and support wound healing. Further clinical studies on human trials are needed to confirm their long-term efficacy, optimal concentrations, and potential interactions in skincare formulations.
Nanowire-based squalene oleogel repairs skin photoaging: This latest study examines squalene’s effects through in vitro and in vivo applications. Findings suggest that squalene can serve as a therapeutic agent for photoaging by reducing inflammation, preserving collagen, enhancing hydration, and restoring skin barrier function.

Bakuchiol

Strengthens Skin Barrier

Main Function: Protects and improves moisture retention.
How It Works: Ceramides are lipids naturally found in the skin barrier, responsible for sealing in moisture and defending against environmental damage.
Why It Matters: A compromised skin barrier leads to dryness, irritation, and sensitivity. Ceramides restore this barrier, keeping skin resilient and hydrated.
Anti-skin-aging effects of human ceramides via collagen and fibrillin expression in dermal fibroblasts: This 2022 study found that a ceramide mixture (ceramide EOP, ceramide NDS, and ceramide NP), helps combat skin aging by enhancing fibroblast activity by increasing growth factors (FGF2, TGF-β1, and TGF-β2), which stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid production, helping to improve elasticity, reduce wrinkles, and strengthen the skin barrier.
Topical treatments with acylceramide dispersions restored stratum corneum lipid lamellar structures in a reconstructed human epidermis model: This 2018 study shows that ceramides, especially acylceramides like Ceramide EOP, help repair and strengthen the skin barrier.
Characterisation of a new ceramide EOS species: Synthesis and investigation of the thermotropic phase behaviour and influence on the bilayer architecture of stratum corneum lipid model membranes: This 2011 study found synthesized ceramide EOS works like natural ceramides to improve oxidative stability while offering better protection against environmental damage.
Efficacy of Ceramide-Containing Formulations on UV-Induced Skin Surface Barrier Alterations: This 2021 study found that ceramide-containing skincare products used routinely can effectively reduce UV-induced erythema and hyperpigmentation while improving skin hydration, and helping maintain skin barrier integrity by supporting healthy cell turnover.

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